The Seductive World of......

 Jasper Goodall

I was first introduced to the magic of Jasper Goodall, through my then-partner, now-wife, the gorgeous Spinal Love-Lost. Along with her acerbic wit, babydoll looks, Goldilocks hair, and and fondness for Jack Skellington, she also brought with her a trove of simply fabulous art and photography books. Great tomes of snaps and creations from the elite of photographers and digital artists from around the globe.

 Amongst this Aladdin's den, was a particularly inspirational volume from the Big Active people. Big Active attempt to, "bring together a vibrant group of like-minded visual conspirators who enjoy the thrill of seducing the world with their images" ('The Seductive World of Big Active: Head, Heart & Hips", Gerard saint, 2005).

The first image, one that hooked me in with it's contrasting bold, up-front quality mixed with a controlled,  discerning use of colour (slow release- almost fetishistic in it's restriction, deliberately and willingly,  holding back to add to the sensation) and made me instantly want to see more was 

The Jolly Roger

Turning frantically to the Contents Page of the 'Head, Hearts and Hips' book to locate the Jasper section , I quickly flicked to these beautifully illustrated depictions from Greek Mythology.

and below, one of his many takes on Aphrodite...

I love the strength of these images, how provocative they are, less pushing, more smashing to oblivion, any taboos about sexuality and desire. There is a quote in the book where Jasper goes on about how he believes that sexual desire and appreciation of art come from the same place in the brain- I kinda get where he is coming from here; when you look at certain images, your 'spidy' senses are awoken, the eyes widening, the sexual head coming on, and in turn, during sex, it can, in special circumstances, seem like a debauched choreographed sexual ballet, art taken to a physical level, a sexual level(just my take- completely subjective, I know).

I also really like the use of the white against the black. It first brought to mind the glossy latex associated with fetishwear, then it reminded me of those pictures that early Gestalt psychologists used, like the Rubin Goblet, which attempted to prove, graphically, that two perceptions can be seen from one stimuli, and  therefore that  perception is more than just the stimuli that enters the eye(fascinating stuff- please don't yawn).

Rubin Goblet

He can also do colour btw like in this great image for the luxury swimwear label, JG4B.....

or here, with one of his most recent ventures, a creation for Paris design agency, La Surprise, with the catchy title, 

"Angel of Death"

I also love his 'PornoGothic' series, where he has produced some amazing posters with a 'horror movie/pornography' theme, inspired by the artwork of horror B-Movies such as these.. 

Here are a few, but there are a whole load on his official website:

Just time for one more quick set of prints from my most favourite of his projects, from his 'Poster Girls' exhibition at Electric Blue Gallery in East London. Again, this is only a snippet of the complete set, but are amongst my favourite illustrations.  

Pink Polish

Crude Oil

This one, above, would look great in my upstairs hall, and methinks I will be making a purchase some time soon(time to start saving the pennies....that said, at £135 or so, it's definitely an affordable modern masterpiece)

Evil-Mickey

See the full series here: 

I leave you with a short video that some kind soul has put together, and fired it up on youtube. It is an excellent wee montage of many of his works. Hope you like it?

Vagabonds: Cushnie and Ochs Vs John Galliano

Tramps, Hobo's, Vagabonds: call them what you will, but they have been the inspiration for many of the top fashion houses and designers for the past few seasons. Irrespective of my views on the morality of using the socially excluded for financial gain, it is easy to see why those on the fringes are such a creative force.

Herione-chic is not new: the 60s mod/bohemian culture, 90s Grunge, Calvin Klein's 1997 Denim campaign featuring models posing as junkies, but the recent season's collections have raised the bar.

The Chaplin-esque look

hit the catwalk with John Galliano's Fall/Winter 2010/11 show, then rapidly trickled down to the High Street, particularly All saints and Toshop/man- nearly everyone was wearing those curved sole, battered boots( I mostly resisted, buying only one pair- grey leather with a herringbone fabric trim). Katharine Hamnett released a pair back in 1993(I bought mine from Glasgow's own Katharine Hamnett store in the Princes Square ready for the third year at hight school- I loved them and wore them to death), but they didn't catch on back then. Good old Katharine was always ahead of her time. I have a bit of a soft spot for her and her eco crusade through fashion.

I wanted to introduce one of my favourite new designers, Cushnie Et Ochs, and could think of no better way than in a face-off with another of my all time favourites, the inimitable(or so I thought) John Galliano.

In an interview with Amy Odell from New York Magazine, Cushnie and Ochs describe their Autumn/Winter collection as being about the concept of "sexy vagabond" and things "woman collected things along the way", and introduce the word, 'vagabondness'.

(not quite sure what that means- Is it even a word?)

Here, have a listen for yourselves...

And so to the collection.....

Chadwick Tyler was the chosen photographer for this range, and his shots are suitably dark and smoky. 

These two shots(above and below) are quite 'cyber-punk', and I am in love with the embossed effect on the skirt on the lower picture. Cushnie and Ochs have a real feel (excuse the pun) for texture, and this can be seen throughout their range.

I love these two skirts, above and below. The texture in the one below is particularly eye-catching, and the slit-detail above is awesome too..

The texture in this coat is similar to the earlier skirt, and works to great effect.

This outfit below really accentuates the model's figure. I think that is what Cushnie and Ochs do best; the sensuousness of their designs and attention to the female figure shows off loads of sex appeal and femininity, but in an almost masculine, or androgynous way. I love it. I also love the irregular cut of the cardigan.

Here, a chunky knit, perfect for those chilly winter strolls, but also 'cool' enough to wear indoors.

And some official(Chadwick Tyler) shots to do them proud...

I hope you like the collection as much as I do- the 'vagabondness' is certainly more heroine-chic, than bag lady/street urchin, but the result is no less impressive. In a future blog entry, I will taking a more in-depth look at my two new favourite girls, Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs. In the meantime, if you want to see more, I have included a video showing the catwalk shots of Cushnie Et Ochs Fall/Winter show at New York's fashion week from 2010/2011.

And now to the old master...

Galliano's Autumn/Winter 2011/12 "wandering vagabond" collection takes it's inspiration from the Eastern Bloc. From Russian Cossacks, to the tundra of Siberia, the lines have a very Soviet feel to them. 

I would love to touch the coat below, to see how it feels. It looks very textured, but shiny too.

This outfit below has a 'jettisoned airman' feel to it. Astoundingly it works just fine.

The collar...oh my

I think this coat, below, is my favourite from the whole collection- my 'must have' piece( I can dream can't I?). Simply stunning.

The fur below = Clockwork Orange meets Boardwalk Empire

I love this black and white fur

But look at the two Kate's wearing a Fendi fur from their 2007 collection

Now back to the collection (sorry about the break in continuity, but I couldn't help noticing- it reminds me of the scene in 'The Devil Wears Prada' where the Anna Wintour character describes how the elite fashion houses are like a gentleman's club, with colours, fabrics, textures circling round amongst the top houses, and finally finding their way to the High Street). 

A touch of the Super-Hero in this outfit. Very imposing, but I like it a lot.

Eastern Russia makes an appearance with this sumptuous smoking jacket ( I would team this with my black leopard print jeggings and my knee-high New Rock's)

I think this outfit below works, and I could actually picture a cool intrepid traveller cutting about in this(and if it was in the west End, then even with the violin on his back)

And finally.....

So, what dya think? Who wins the battle?  I know it was made slightly more difficult by having a men's collection against a women's, but it's the concept that's being judged, so it shouldn't matter. I totally adore both designers, but if based on the closeness of their designs to the inspiration, then John may be coming out top, but if based on cutting edge design and boundary-pushing, then maybe it's Cushie and Ochs? 

Well, considering that I already have a place set in my heart for John, I think I will hand it to the newbies. I can't wait to see more of their lines over the next few seasons.

I leave you with what has to be one of the best runway shows, ever.

I introduce the one true master, Mr. John Gallianao....

Sneakers are Haute Couture

With sneakers being found on the catwalk more and more, and haute couture collaborations with sports shoe makers all the rage, I thought I'd let you see my views on it all.

I love shoes, and  sneakers fall into the 'shoe' category, ergo I love sneakers.

So here is how it all started.

The year- 1986 (btw, a great track by Shook has the same theme- ie 1986)

Troop was king.

 No king of me though. What was a 9 year old boy to do.......?

A Saviour arrived, and they called him......

Travel Fox

The image doesn't do them the justice they deserve. 

Found on the discerning late-teen clubber of 1986, and adorned by the cool bands/idols of the day, these were the sneaker to be had. My first love. I remember it like yesterday when I saught them out, with the little glossy booklet detailing materials used- Nappa leather upper, man-made sole. 

Whilst mere mortals wore... 

or.....

(I had a pair of these- and they served me well too.....till Travel Fox came along and changed my world.

With it's multi-coloured designs, vivid and shiny, and it's Italian heritage strewn all over, sneakers had just become Haute Couture. I was nine( will explain how a nine year old boy cared so much about fashion in a later blog installment).

Have a look for yourself, and join me in marvelling at it's greatness.

Even now I search ebay regularly in the vein hope that a pair will surface, but they are more elusive than the Scarlet Pimpernell.

Here is a TV advertisement from 1986- to be honest, I don't remember it, but it may jog some memories.

Following my obsession with the Fox, came an obsession with Nike Air Jordan 6. Only 6 though. In all their colours.

Here is Black Deep Infra-Red:

And White Deep Infra-Red

There was a lapse of a year or two, whilst I found the shoe(another blog maybe- Kickers, Wallaby's etc), before returning a year or two later to the sneaker.

My eye had found the Converse.

I had a pair in blue first, then green, then onwards through a vast array right up to the present day(I currently have about ten pairs, and never a week goes by without my wearing at least one pair- most recent was a pair inspired by Parka jackets).

Here is a pair of ACDC Converse that I bought for my mates birthday a couple of years ago.

And here is a pair that I do not own, but hopefully soon will.

And so to the present Catwalk accessory. I have compiled a wee series of images of sneakers that I would love to have/will have soon.

A spiky Christan Louboutin perhaps....

or Alexander McQueen

McQueen again(this will be a patten if future blogs- I love him)

Gola by Christain Lacroix

Ann Demeulemeester (also in black, also amazing)

Mr Valentino

My personal favourite: The Christain Louboutin Studded Sneaker

And up close....

Not really a sneaker I know, but from the same range, one of my absolute all-time favourite shoes(sorry couldn't resist): Louboutin Roller Boy Lace Up (there is a Slip-On too!!)

And finally, the ultimate Catwalk sneaker/high heel combo, and surely my number one gal's next birthday present.......