Thursday, 17 February 2011

Vagabonds: Cushnie and Ochs Vs John Galliano


Tramps, Hobo's, Vagabonds: call them what you will, but they have been the inspiration for many of the top fashion houses and designers for the past few seasons. Irrespective of my views on the morality of using the socially excluded for financial gain, it is easy to see why those on the fringes are such a creative force.

Herione-chic is not new: the 60s mod/bohemian culture, 90s Grunge, Calvin Klein's 1997 Denim campaign featuring models posing as junkies, but the recent season's collections have raised the bar.

The Chaplin-esque look


hit the catwalk with John Galliano's Fall/Winter 2010/11 show, then rapidly trickled down to the High Street, particularly All saints and Toshop/man- nearly everyone was wearing those curved sole, battered boots( I mostly resisted, buying only one pair- grey leather with a herringbone fabric trim). Katharine Hamnett released a pair back in 1993(I bought mine from Glasgow's own Katharine Hamnett store in the Princes Square ready for the third year at hight school- I loved them and wore them to death), but they didn't catch on back then. Good old Katharine was always ahead of her time. I have a bit of a soft spot for her and her eco crusade through fashion.

I wanted to introduce one of my favourite new designers, Cushnie Et Ochs, and could think of no better way than in a face-off with another of my all time favourites, the inimitable(or so I thought) John Galliano.

In an interview with Amy Odell from New York Magazine, Cushnie and Ochs describe their Autumn/Winter collection as being about the concept of "sexy vagabond" and things "woman collected things along the way", and introduce the word, 'vagabondness'.
(not quite sure what that means- Is it even a word?)

Here, have a listen for yourselves...



And so to the collection.....


Chadwick Tyler was the chosen photographer for this range, and his shots are suitably dark and smoky. 



These two shots(above and below) are quite 'cyber-punk', and I am in love with the embossed effect on the skirt on the lower picture. Cushnie and Ochs have a real feel (excuse the pun) for texture, and this can be seen throughout their range.




I love these two skirts, above and below. The texture in the one below is particularly eye-catching, and the slit-detail above is awesome too..


The texture in this coat is similar to the earlier skirt, and works to great effect.


This outfit below really accentuates the model's figure. I think that is what Cushnie and Ochs do best; the sensuousness of their designs and attention to the female figure shows off loads of sex appeal and femininity, but in an almost masculine, or androgynous way. I love it. I also love the irregular cut of the cardigan.


Here, a chunky knit, perfect for those chilly winter strolls, but also 'cool' enough to wear indoors.


And some official(Chadwick Tyler) shots to do them proud...







I hope you like the collection as much as I do- the 'vagabondness' is certainly more heroine-chic, than bag lady/street urchin, but the result is no less impressive. In a future blog entry, I will taking a more in-depth look at my two new favourite girls, Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs. In the meantime, if you want to see more, I have included a video showing the catwalk shots of Cushnie Et Ochs Fall/Winter show at New York's fashion week from 2010/2011.


And now to the old master...

Galliano's Autumn/Winter 2011/12 "wandering vagabond" collection takes it's inspiration from the Eastern Bloc. From Russian Cossacks, to the tundra of Siberia, the lines have a very Soviet feel to them. 


I would love to touch the coat below, to see how it feels. It looks very textured, but shiny too.




This outfit below has a 'jettisoned airman' feel to it. Astoundingly it works just fine.





The collar...oh my


I think this coat, below, is my favourite from the whole collection- my 'must have' piece( I can dream can't I?). Simply stunning.

The fur below = Clockwork Orange meets Boardwalk Empire


I love this black and white fur


But look at the two Kate's wearing a Fendi fur from their 2007 collection


Now back to the collection (sorry about the break in continuity, but I couldn't help noticing- it reminds me of the scene in 'The Devil Wears Prada' where the Anna Wintour character describes how the elite fashion houses are like a gentleman's club, with colours, fabrics, textures circling round amongst the top houses, and finally finding their way to the High Street). 


A touch of the Super-Hero in this outfit. Very imposing, but I like it a lot.


Eastern Russia makes an appearance with this sumptuous smoking jacket ( I would team this with my black leopard print jeggings and my knee-high New Rock's)




I think this outfit below works, and I could actually picture a cool intrepid traveller cutting about in this(and if it was in the west End, then even with the violin on his back)


And finally.....



So, what dya think? Who wins the battle?  I know it was made slightly more difficult by having a men's collection against a women's, but it's the concept that's being judged, so it shouldn't matter. I totally adore both designers, but if based on the closeness of their designs to the inspiration, then John may be coming out top, but if based on cutting edge design and boundary-pushing, then maybe it's Cushie and Ochs? 

Well, considering that I already have a place set in my heart for John, I think I will hand it to the newbies. I can't wait to see more of their lines over the next few seasons.

I leave you with what has to be one of the best runway shows, ever.

I introduce the one true master, Mr. John Gallianao....


3 comments:

  1. I have only one thing to say:

    DERELICTE!!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkOBAEa9wn8

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  2. The Chadwick Tyler shots are amazing. Striking and stunningly beautiful!

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  3. Madame G, that clip where we come across the word, 'vagabondness' is so Zoolander. You are absolutely right(of course)- think I will have a wee watch of that film again soon- can't wait for the sequel!!

    Lou, I totally agree- Chadwick Tyler is a super photographer. Have you seen any of his other work?
    http://www.chadwicktyler.com

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